Carriacou Description

Story by Bob Wohlers

In the late 1970s I had the privilege of living on Grenada’s sister island, Carriacou. At that time, these two islands were really on the Caribbean frontier. Despite its size (133 square miles [346 sq. km]), Grenada still did not have an airport that could handle even medium-sized jets. You could walk through St. George’s, Grenada’s capital city, and hear steel drum bands practicing in the distance and the static scramble of a short-wave radio broadcasting world news. During hikes through the rainforest or walks around the local markets, the scents of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, vanilla and ginger wafted in the balmy air. Visiting Grenada and Carriacou was a true Caribbean adventure. More than 20 years have passed since I first stored Grenada’s charm in my memory. And not much has changed.

The three main islands that make up the nation of Grenada include Grenada (pronounced Gra-NAY-da) itself, Carriacou (Carry-a-KOO) and Petite Martinique (Pitty Mar-ti-NEEK). Grenada and its sister islands are geographically considered part of the Windward Islands. The Windwards are at the southern end of the Caribbean island arc and the largest are Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and Grenada. Between St. Vincent and Grenada lie the beautiful Grenadines — a host of smaller islands, some no bigger than a sand cay with a couple of palm trees. Carriacou is actually considered the largest of the Grenadine Islands.

The lush nature of Grenada underscores its nickname — The Isle of Spice. Grenada has more spices per square mile than any other place on the planet. Cloves, mace, cocoa, cinnamon, ginger and a host of other spices spring from Grenada’s rich, fertile soil. By far the most abundant is the nutmeg. Grenada produces a third of the world’s supply and it’s the island’s largest export.

Like many islands in the Caribbean, Grenada was not so much discovered by Columbus as it was sighted by him. On his third voyage to the New World in 1498, he passed by and named the island Concepcion. Since fierce Carib Indians inhabited the island, Europeans didn’t attempt settlement until the mid-1600s. When the French finally tried to get a foothold on Grenada, they found themselves in a running battle with the Caribs for control of the island. In 1651, the final, deadly clash took place in northern Grenada at Le Morne de Sauteru. The Caribs, unwilling to be captured and taken as slaves, met death by throwing themselves off the cliff onto the rocks below what today is called Leaper’s Hill.

Over the next century, Grenada’s fortunes followed the political power struggles of the European powers. Britain and France exchanged possession of the island almost like clockwork. Finally, in 1783, the Treaty of Versailles awarded Grenada to Britain. French heritage, however, continues to live on in many of the geographical names around the island.

In 1967, Grenada became an associated state within the British Commonwealth. With this, the island nation gained control of its internal affairs, while the government of Britain continued to control external matters. Complete independence was achieved in 1974. Grenada has a democratic government and its people welcome visitors of all cultures.