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British entrepreneur
Peter de Savary is leading the way, making a
multimillion-dollar investment, including a redesigned
harbor for the capital, St. George's, so his new Port Louis
marina can welcome yachts - very, very big yachts. The
attitude is build-it-and-they-will-come - the businessman
envisions a place of luxury hotels and villas, eco spas,
restaurants, shops and other niceties geared toward a chic
set that includes his friends (he is an unabashed name
dropper, peppering conversations with mentions of Bill
Clinton, Mick Jagger and the like). The marina will be able
to accommodate yachts of up to 300 feet.
With a population of about 102,000, Grenada has
previously held a low-key position on the tourism map. In
fact, the English-speaking West Indies island nation may be
the last of the truly authentic places in the Caribbean.
Once a favorite of sailors as a gateway to the Windward
Islands, there hasn't been much of a tourist trade of late
beyond small hotels and resorts. Most businesses cater to
locals rather than tourists, though a new cruise facility is
attracting visits by cruise ships on Southern Caribbean
itineraries.
Grenada serves up white-sand beaches, deep-blue waters,
mountains, rainforests and much lush greenery - one-sixth of
the land is protected as national parks. Yet it is best known as the place where
Ronald Reagan sent troops in 1983 - following a coup and
amid increasing coziness with Cuba and the Soviet bloc - to
``rescue'' American students attending the island's medical
school. The country has had a stable democracy since 1984.
The economic mainstay for generations was nutmeg, with
one-third of the world's production coming from the ``Spice
Island.''
Then came Hurricane Ivan, the 2004 storm scoring a direct
hit, destroying about 85 percent of the structures on
Grenada and stripping most of the nutmeg crop.
It takes nutmeg trees about 10 years to regenerate. So
island officials took a serious look at tourism and opened
the door to more development, with de Savary leading the
way. He is known as the developer of the St. James's Clubs
in London and New York, the Abaco Club in the Bahamas, Skibo
Castle in Scotland and Bovey Castle in England. Tax
incentives were part of the deal.
Grenada currently has only 1,500 hotel rooms. But with de
Savary's plans for villas and luxury hotels, and the
unrelated construction of a Four Seasons Resort and other
small projects, that number is expected to double by 2012.
Grenadians see their island as ``the sweetest island in
the world,'' according to Junior Cuffie, harbormaster for de
Savary's Port Louis marina. And they want to keep it that
way, at the same time welcoming the opportunities
development provides. Tourism officials are quick to point
out the emphasis is on luxury and lesser projects have been
turned away - the floodgates are not open.
At de Savary's Mount Cinnamon, a boutique resort, 21
luxury villas sold out in a matter of months last year. A
second phase is under way with two- and three-bedroom villas
priced from $795,000. Nightly rentals, available after March
1, are from $500 per night.
The white-walled complex occupies a hillside above Grand
Anse beach, Grenada's main beach, with two blissful miles of
white sand and not a high-rise in sight - though you can see
the colorful Georgian buildings of St. George's harbor in
the distance.
Elsewhere, the coast - Caribbean on one side and Atlantic
on the other - is rippled with fjords and isolated tiny
beaches, some accessible only by boat.
The scenery is stunning, and so is the unspoiled local
charm.
In little villages, there is dancing in the street,
literally, especially on weekly Fish Friday, centered in the
northern village of Gouyave.
Visitors will see donkeys and goats crossing small
winding roads. Some locals still wash their clothes in
streams and you may see women carrying goods on their heads.
In one town, Victoria, a bridge just went up a few months
ago to connect a main road to the school. Before that, the
children, in full school uniform, would cross stones in a
roaring stream to get to school.
Traffic lights have only been a factor on Grenada for the
last decade, and there are still very few.
Will this all change with the upcoming development?
Probably.
But, promised Cuffie, ``We don't want to spoil it. We
don't want it like Barbados and those places. We want it
like Grenada.''
Getting to know Gre-NAY-dah
Here are some of our favorite ways to enjoy the island:
1. Sit on a quiet white sand beach.
2. Visit the monkeys and hike the trails at the Grand
Etang rainforest.
3. Take a dip in a waterfall at Annandale Falls.
4. Go game fishing for marlin, tuna and sailfish.
5.
Dive to see the Bianca C, an Italian cruise ship that
sank off Grenada in 1962.
6. Take in the sights and sounds of the bustling
open-air market in St. George's.
7. Stop by the Westerhall Rum Distillery for a taste and
tour. 8. Learn about nutmeg, coffee and cocoa production
at the Belmont Estate (www.belmontestate.net).
9. Visit Fort George, built in 1706, and center of the
island's Oct. 19, 1983, political disturbance when Maurice
Bishop, and part of his cabinet, were executed by the
people's Revolutionary Government. It's now police
headquarters.
10. Try curried goat, callaloo soup and other West
Indies dishes at restaurants including BB's Crabback (www.bbscrabback.com)
on the St. George's waterfront.
Invading American troops are one thing. Invading wealthy
tourists are another.
And the path to a tourist invasion is in place on the
sleepy Caribbean island of Grenada as developers seek to
create ``a new St. Bart's'' for the high-end travel set.
If you go
WHERE IS GRENADA? The island nation is in the southern
Caribbean, 100 miles from Venezuela. To the south is
Trinidad and Tobago and to the north is St. Vincent and The
Grenadines.
GETTING THERE: American Airlines (www.aa.com) offers
connecting service through San Juan.
STAYING THERE: Mount Cinnamon
(www.mountcinnamongrenada.com) offers villas overlooking
Grand Anse beach. All units are done up in bright tropical
decor and have kitchens. The property is home to the
poolside Savvy's restaurant and has a small spa and fitness
club among facilities. Rates are from $500 per night for two
(special rates apply in early March).
For a low-key experience, the Bel Air Plantation
(
www.belairplantation.com), is a nice hillside hideaway
overlooking a secluded bay, with 11 cottages and villas, all
with ocean views and kitchens. There's also an open-air
restaurant. Winter rates from $350 per night.
BOATING THERE: For information on the Port Louis marina
and available slips, visit
www.portlouisgrenada.com.
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